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The Kimchi Chronicles: Korean Cooking for an American Kitchen, by Marja Vongerichten Julia Turshen
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About the Author
Marja Vongerichten is a Korean-born former actress and model. At home with her husband, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, she cooks authentic, Korean dishes. She and Jean-Georges live in New York City with their daughter Chloe.
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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Pantry: My Korean-American KitchenMy home kitchen is a literal melting pot, a place of multicultural eating that keeps my family connected to our Korean, French, and American roots. This rich diversity is reflected in the contents of my pantry and the ingredients we consider staples. My husband keeps great olive oil and European vinegars in the cupboard for dressing salads; chocolate hidden among the condiments as a bedtime snack (he can't go to sleep without having a little bit); and buttermilk in the fridge for pancakes on the weekends. I keep kimchi in the refrigerator, and while everyone gave me a hard time at first, it's become a household staple; even our daughter, Chloe, whose ideal meal would probably be pasta with a side of white rice, loves kimchi. I also keep fish sauce next to the vinegar, dried anchovies tucked on a shelf next to the rice, and £ds (literally) of gochugaru (red pepper powder) that I haul back from Korea in my suitcase. Our cheese drawer probably says the most about our family--there's Parmigiano-Reggiano for Chloe's spaghetti, immaculate goat cheeses that Jean-Georges brings home from his restaurants, and individually wrapped American cheese slices, which are my Korean family's secret ingredient in many traditional Korean soups (see page 61 for more on that).One of the most appealing aspects of Korean food is its accessibility Even though it may seem incredibly exotic, requiring lots of unfamiliar ingredients and preparations, at its core it's a flavorful, healthy, approachable cuisine that you can make using many of the ingredients you already have in your pantry. As a matter of fact, there are really only two essential ingredients I find myself using over and over again that might not already be in your kitchen--gochujang (red pepper paste) and gochugaru (red pepper powder). The good news is both are easy to get online and are on the shelves of every Korean grocery store and lots of specialty grocery stores. Since both keep indefinitely, you can stock up whenever you find a good source so you'll never have to scramble at the last minute.In the following pages, you'll find descriptions of the ingredients used in Korean cooking that might be unfamiliar. I've also given a list of my must- have cooking tools (including scissors!) and a list of resources.Pantry StaplesGochujang (Red Pepper Paste)This fermented hot pepper paste is the most indispensable, distinctly Korean, and frequently used ingredient in the Korean cook's pantry. It's made primarily of gochugaru (red pepper powder) bound with sweet rice powder (which lends a bit of sweetness) and seasoned with salt. After it's been left to ferment, the flavor and red color become dark and rich. Labor- intensive to make, gochujang is almost always bought packaged rather than prepared at home (sort of like Americans and ketchup). It's used in just about every sauce, marinade, soup, and braise; it goes on poultry, beef, pork, seafood, tofu, and more. In other words, it's the MVP in every Korean kitchen and on every Korean table.Gochugaru (Red Pepper Powder)Although gochugaru is now ubiquitous in Korean cooking, it wasn't widely available in Korea until the 1600s. The red chile we've come to associate so strongly with Korean food came originally from Latin America, traveling to Asia through Spanish commerce. I think the best gochugaru comes from the area around Sokcho, where my most of my biological family lives. It comes coarsely ground or finely ground; I always use coarse in my cooking, but you can substitute fine if you'd like. Gochugaru is worth seeking out for your Korean cooking at home since it's much fruitier and milder than most commercially available chile powders (which is why I'm often generous with how much I use). In a pinch, you can substitute red pepper flakes (like those offered to shake on pizza), but use them to taste, as they're much spicier than gochugaru.Doenjang (Soybean Paste)Made of fermented soybeans, doenjang, which translates to "thick paste," is essentially Korean miso paste. It's distinguished from Japanese miso by its coarse, unrefined texture and its aggressive flavor--this isn't subtle stuff. It's often fermented outdoors in large stone pots. In Andong, we went to a restaurant, known for its homemade doenjang, that was run by Grandmother Chung, whose family has been making it for 19 generations! It was hard to miss--their driveway is filled with 3,000 clay pots of the stuff. You can substitute Japanese miso paste for doenjang with successful results (especially if you can find a coarse Japanese variety).SsamjangA thick, slightly spicy paste, ssamjang is basically a mixture of gochujang and doenjang, but it can also be flavored with sesame oil, garlic, or, sometimes, brown sugar. It's used as a condiment for grilled meats and is essential for bo ssam (page 91).Kimchi and Kimchi LiquidWhile making kimchi at home is fun and completely doable (page 37), most Koreans buy prepared kimchi at markets and grocery stores. I keep both my own homemade kimchi and my favorite store-bought varieties in my refrigerator at all times. The liquid that covers the kimchi is a terrific seasoning on its own and I use it often in dishes like bindaetteok (page 67) and kimchi butter (page 81). Many of my recipes call for "sour kimchi," which essentially means old kimchi. Just like the distinction between a sour pickle and a half-sour pickle, older kimchi takes on a stronger, more acidic flavor that I find very welcome in dishes like kimchi jjigae (page 58). If you don't like the developed flavor of sour kimchi, feel free to substitute lighter tasting fresh kimchi.Soy SauceLike most Asian cooks, Koreans use soy sauce (made from soybeans fermented with water and salt) as a key seasoning. A dash of soy sauce transforms any dish just the way salt does, but with an added backbone. This depth of flavor is referred to by the Japanese as umami. I often call for "high- quality" soy sauce in my recipes, by which I mean a reliable brand that doesn't list MSG as an ingredient.Toasted Sesame OilToasted sesame oil, derived from toasted and crushed sesame seeds, is distinguished by its nutty, rich flavor. It's often used as a seasoning rather than an oil for cooking, but I like to cook with it since all the dishes I make that start with it take on a great depth of flavor.Fish SauceMade from fermented fish, fish sauce has a smell that can be off-putting to most first-timers, but its salty, funky, distinctive taste borders on addictive. It's got the same umami thing going on as soy sauce.VinegarAcidity is nearly as important as salt in Korean (and most all) cooking. A splash of vinegar elevates flavors and perks everything up. Koreans often use mild apple vinegar, not to be confused with apple cider vinegar. Rice vinegar is equally common and I use both in my kitchen; for the recipes in this book, however, I have called for rice vinegar as it's more readily available. Feel free to substitute apple vinegar if you do come across it.Korean Hot MustardA vital condiment to be served with naengmyeon (page 200), a cold noodle soup with brisket, Korean hot mustard is very similar to hot French mustard as well as the Chinese version. If you can't find it, I find that powdered Colman's mustard mixed with water, vinegar, and salt makes an excellent substitute.Roasted Sesame SeedsRoasted sesame seeds are vital to Korean cooking, adding toasty flavor and crunchy texture in a variety of dishes. They're sometimes cooked into soups and stews, ground into marinades, and often sprinkled over dishes not merely for aesthetic purposes but also for a great taste. While I always buy them already roasted (they come in jars), you can purchase raw sesame seeds and toast them in a dry skillet or in the oven if you prefer.Dashida (Jomiryo)A granulated instant beef stock powder, dashida (also known as jomiryo) is often used as a seasoning, almost like salt with more depth. Since many commercial brands contain MSG, be careful about which you choose. If you do not eat meat but do eat fish, I find that an equal amount of fish sauce can stand in for dashida to add that salty, savory quality.Dried Anchovy and Kelp PacketsDried anchovies are used often in Korean cooking; in fact, small ones are often eaten whole as a snack. Large dried anchovies are the base for anchovy stock, which typically also includes dried seaweed. One of my favorite discoveries in the Korean supermarket I frequent in New Jersey was the packets of dried anchovies and kelp that I have come to think of as savory tea bags. You can pop a few into a pot of boiling water and have flavorful stock in no time. The best part is the packet makes it so easy-- there's no need to measure the amounts and no need to strain the stock. Just fish the packet out and discard.SeaweedSeaweed, one of the healthiest foods you can consume because it's full of minerals, is used a lot in Korean cooking. Gim is dried laver seaweed that gets sprinkled on top of noodle soups and wrapped around rice to make gimbap (page 181). (Japanese nori, also a laver, is a widely used substitute.) Dried miyeok is my go-to for soups like Birthday Seaweed Soup (page 57), but you can substitute many types of dried seaweed, such as wakame, available in health food stores or Asian markets. Dried kelp-- dasima in Korean or kombu in Japanese--is great for stocks.Salted ShrimpKnown as saeujeot in Korean, salted shrimp are a common ingredient in kimchi and are also used in bo ssam (page 91), a grand dish of pork belly wrapped in lettuce with other seasonings. Unlike dried, salted shrimp used in other Asian cuisines, Korean salted shrimp come in a jar packed in liquid that you drain before using.SaltI use coarse, kosher salt in all of my cooking.Dried Dates (Daechu)Also known as jujubes, these are dark red and wrinkled. They are often used medicinally (they're said to help relax you) as well as in many popular dishes like samgyetang (page 141) and Braised Short Ribs with Pumpkin (page 123). Dried cherries make a reasonable substitute.Honey Citron MarmaladeKoreans often drink a delicious tea made of hot water combined with a jellylike ingredient called yujacha, which is a honey-sweetened marmalade made of citron. Not only does it make a great drink, it's also a terrific ingredient for dressings and marinades, such as the dipping sauce for Crunchy Fried Squid (page 168) and the Barbecued Chicken with Sweet Barbecue Sauce (page 94). A good-quality orange marmalade makes a perfect substitute.Perilla SeedsPerilla seeds come from the perilla plant, which is often labeled "sesame plant." It is a member of the mint family and is not at all related to the plant that bears sesame seeds. It's its own wonderful thing, and the seeds have a flavor reminiscent of sesame, but also with the tang of coriander seeds. Perilla seeds are a terrific ingredient to experiment with, but if you can't find them and want to make a recipe like the Pork Neck Stew with Potatoes and Perilla (page 135), you can substitute a combination of sesame and coriander seeds.SojuOne of the most popular alcoholic beverages in Korea, soju has a flavor similar to vodka but is a bit sweeter and quite a bit lower in alcohol. It's traditionally distilled from rice, but nowadays companies often make it from potatoes, wheat, sweet potatoes, or even tapioca. Sake and vodka are both ideal substitutes.MakgeolliAlso spelled makguli, this alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice brewed with yeast has a milky appearance and is lightly carbonated; it tastes like a cross between unfiltered sake and a light wheat beer. It's often served in bowls, not unlike cafe au lait. You can substitute sake or white wine in recipes.StarchesShort-Grain RiceThe standard at every Korean meal, short-grain, Korean-grown white rice is available in every Korean grocery store.Sweet Rice (Chapssal)Another type of short-grain rice, sweet rice (also known as glutinous rice) gets especially sticky when cooked, which is why it's referred to as glutinous although it does not actually contain gluten. It's my secret ingredient in the crunchy mung bean pancakes called bindaetteok (page 67).NoodlesKorean cuisine features all sorts of noodles. The most common types include japchae, which are thin cellophane noodles made of sweet potato starch; jajangmyeon, which, much like Chinese egg noodles, are fresh and have a great chew; and buckwheat noodles, which are used often (and some varieties have added potato starch to give the noodles a bit of elasticity). Finally, there are kalguksu, which translates to "hand-cut," a reference to their thick, rough texture; they're made of wheat and if you can't find them, dry or fresh udon noodles make a perfect substitute.Dried Mung Beans and Mung Bean PowderDried mung beans get soaked and pulverized for bindaetteok (page 67), which are crunchy and slightly addictive pancakes. Mung bean powder gets mixed with water and allowed to gel to form noodles for tangpyeongchae (page 72). Essential ingredients, both the dried beans and powder are readily available online and at Korean grocery stores.Rice FlourRegular rice flour is made of ground white rice, and seems to make everything it touches crisp. I can't make Seafood and Scallion Pajeon (page 151) without it.Sweet Rice PowderSweet rice powder (also called sweet rice flour) is made from ground sweet rice and is a great thickener. I use it often and can't make my Ultimate Cabbage Kimchi (page 37) without it. Regular rice flour makes a good substitute.Rice CakesRice cakes, or tteok (pronounced "duck"), are made from ground glutinous rice. They take all sorts of shapes, from long, 1-inch-thick cylinders to small, flat, coinlike discs. They are used in savory preparations like soups and stir-fries, or are served as sweets (in all sorts of shapes) that are stuffed with red bean paste, nuts, and even jujubes. The sweet variety is often eaten at celebratory events like birthdays and weddings and is a traditional New Year's Day meal throughout Korea.ProduceNapa CabbageNapa cabbage is probably the most widely used vegetable in all of Korean cuisine. It is the essential ingredient in cabbage kimchi. Be sure to buy heads that are firm and not cracked at the stem end.Moo (White Radish)Moo (sometimes known as mu) is the Korean variety of daikon radish. Larger and wider than Japanese daikon, it's got a mild, slightly sweet flavor. It's used both raw and cooked. Be sure to pick out moo that are smooth and have bright green tops.Scallions and GarlicFound in every grocery store in America, scallions and garlic inform nearly every Korean recipe.Korean PearsKorean pears, also known as Asian pears and Asian pear apples, are consumed widely in Korea. They're eaten on their own as a snack, are sliced into kimchi, and even ground to use as a sweetener and tenderizer in marinades.Perilla Leaf
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Product details
Hardcover: 272 pages
Publisher: Rodale Books (August 2, 2011)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1609611276
ISBN-13: 978-1609611279
Product Dimensions:
7.7 x 0.9 x 9.4 inches
Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.5 out of 5 stars
100 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#442,924 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
I've had this book for several years and return to it again and again. We've loved every recipe I've tried and now work them into our regular rotation. The book presents the cornerstone ingredients of korean food in the beginning and then uses them over and over to create most recipes. This is great because you can make one trip to an asian grocery store and, for a reasonable price, purchase every authentic ingredient you need to make most of the recipes. This makes korean food at home very accessible, and once you have the right ingredients, the recipes are simple. These ingredients have become staples in my home that I reach for whenever I want big flavor with little effort. I often use this book to make meals for friends who may not be familiar with korean food. They always love it and think I'm some kind of exotic food superstar. Highly recommended!
I am Korean, born in America. My parents are both native south Koreans. My dad has recently been staying during the week to help with childcare, and before they moved nearby I worried about what he would eat (he made it clear to my mother that I wasn't a good cook, though I am, he can just be a typical, critical Korean parent, but I won't get into that!). My mother had shown me how to cook some of my favorite dishes in times past, and in retrospect I should have recorded the cooking sessions because it was never very clear to me probably due to translation issues ("a little of this- Oh, I don't know what it's called"). I have other Korean cookbooks by Korean authors but the instructions were not easy to follow, and I wasn't driven to keep trying other recipes. So, I tried KC, tweaking recipes here and there as I often do, out of convenience, or out of my own taste. The first recipe I made for my dad was the yukaejang/hangover soup. I used my own beef bone broth, but otherwise followed the recipe. Dad said it was really good, as good as any restaurant! I continued with the seaweed soup, and the rice cake soup, again using my own beef bone broth, and again I was praised (he and my mother said "my" soup was better than my mother's!). I tried one soup not using my flavorful broth- sundubu jjigae, and it fell flat. I do think a flavorful broth is key in the soups. What I love about this book is it is easy to understand, even regarding buying the ingredients if I weren't familiar in an Asian grocery. The kimchi, the hallmark of Kor cuisine, turned out really good, and was not at all as intimidating as I thought it would be. I've made bulgogi using her recipe pretty much to a T and gotten rave reviews from guests. The only thing I want to perfect as of now is getting my brisket fork tender for the soups, or just using a more tender cut of beef instead. I also just made the sweet and spicy bbq chicken for my young family and everything got gobbled up. I will definitely be making that more often. I will be trying many more of her recipes. This is a modern cookbook with some of Korea's most classic dishes. True to her life and her influences from her husband there are delicious fusions, my favorite way of cooking and entertaining! I especially loved reading about her story, her pictures, and am grateful to her for helping me familiarize myself in the Korean kitchen.
I have collected cookbooks for years but never any which featured Asian cooking. This is an interesting guide to Korean dishes which I had never had the pleasure of sampling until a few years ago. My late husband's client was a lovely Korean woman who had come to America and saved for years to open a Korean restaurant. Coincidentally, one of my brothers moved back to our city after spending a lot of time in Korea and developing a taste for the cuisine. Thus began my love affair with Korean food and my desire to create the dishes for myself. The book has lots of lovely illustrations, not only of the food, but photos of family & friends. The author gives a short history of her life both in Korea and in the US which I found utterly charming. The recipe instructions are easy to follow and not difficult to prepare. It was just what I was looking for and I've found it to be an excellent cooking reference for me and a good companion book for the PBS television series of the same name.
Just got the book for two week, but already tried a number of recipes, all coming out quite well. I plan to try to more. One issue I have so far, though, is the recipes ask for too much meat. "Easy Braised Chicken" and "Spicy Pork Stir-Fry" would taste best with half the meat.The book vendor is great. I got the book for half the price, and it is as new as a new book.
I really enjoy the book. The PBS show looked so good and appetizing, I had to buy this book. Japanese, Indian and Korean foods require a lot ingredients. This cook book makes it real easy to follow. It helps to have an Asian store close by when cooking international recipes. It's one of the better Korean cookbooks that I have.
This book is excellent. It is a very high-quality piece, and can serve as decoration or as a practical cookbook. As a cookbook, though, it is somewhat lacking. The recipes that are there are GREAT. Seriously, they are VERY good recipes, and pretty practical. However, you might expect a cookbook to be packed with recipes and made with sturdy pages. This is more of a designer book--the pages are high quality, and glossy. They won't hold up against the splashes of Kimchi juice that you will unleash upon your kitchen when you start pumping out high-quality Korean food. :)Seriously though, it's an excellent book, and I do recommend it. It just isn't the typical American-style cookbook. It's much better.
One of my favorite cookbooks ever. I owned the hard cover version, but I am migrating all my books into kindle versions and I had been repurchasing digitally only those books worth keeping forever, this book made it to the digital selection.I love the sauces!!!
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